How to Fill In Your Brows for a Natural Look, According to Makeup Artists

woman with natural, fluffy eyebrows

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Regardless of your brow situation, you can fill them in to make them appear more natural. Of course, you'll need to know a handful of specific techniques, tools, and colors.

To be clear, these techniques aren't limited to fixing brow mishaps. If you already have a great shape and you're looking to enhance your look, several strokes of color can bring out your eyes. Light brows tend to disappear, especially when wearing a full face of makeup, so they can be more defined with some color. You can easily take care of light and sparse areas with pencil, powder, or mousse. Ahead, learn from celebrity makeup artist Carissa Ferreri and eyebrow specialist Joey Healy about how to best create the look of natural, fluffy eyebrows.

Meet the Expert

  • Carissa Ferreri is a celebrity makeup artist with clients among the likes of Ashley Graham, Hannah Brown, Gina Rodriguez, and more.
  •  Joey Healy is a celebrity eyebrow specialist.

Brush Eyebrows First

Before filling in your brows, use a brow brush or spoolie to brush your brows upwards. Although primarily used as a mascara applicator, a spoolie brush can work here too. Its spiraled bristles can shape brows and blend in eyebrow filler. After you fill in your brows, you can brush them upward again to blend in the color and shape any unruly hairs.

Choose a Color

"You want to find a color closest to your natural brow with the proper undertone (warm, cool, neutral)," says Healy. "When in doubt, go with a shade lighter than your natural color."

Healy adds that it's helpful to have a professional help you match your shade during a service. "I recommend purchasing your products in-person rather than online so that you can ensure you're choosing the right shade, but if you are shopping online you should definitely read the reviews beforehand."

If you have dark hair, pick a color that is a shade or two lighter than the natural color of your brows. On the other hand, if you have light hair and are deepening your brows, you can opt for a tone that's a half to one shade darker.

Determine What Formulation is Right For You

Depending on the type of look you're going for, you'll want to settle on a powder, pencil, or gel. Healy is a big fan of powders for their natural results. "Powders give a hazy whisper of color across the brow to help make them look denser, fuller and more voluminous," says Healy. "Pencils are best for restructuring the brow–adding height to the arch, lengthening the tail."

Select the Right Tools

When you're just getting started, it will take some time to learn which tools work best for your brows and how to use the product correctly for the best results.

  • If you're using a powder, get a stiff angled brush. The stiff bristles of the brush are great for control when putting the product on and defining your eyebrow shape. Apply the powder in angles by following the way your hair is growing.
  • Those choosing a pencil will find that that brow pencils are great for filling in sparse spots. Work their magic by lightly holding the pencil and drawing hair strokes in the sparse areas. You can also use a stiff angled brush or an eyebrow brush here to soften the lines as needed.
  • When opting for a gel or mousse, you can cover gray brows, instantly deepen hair color, and provide some holding power. Simply stroke on your brows like you put mascara on your lashes—just avoid putting multiple coats on your brows.

If you're using powder or a pencil, you can apply a brow wax to will keep your brows from smudging. Mousse, however, will dry on its own. A good product like Blinc Eyebrow Mousse ($24) won't flake either. If you discover that your brows are sparse due to stress, aging, or thyroid issues, try testing an eyebrow revitalizer like Talika Lipocils ($67) which can help spur growth.

Apply Products Carefully

Ensure you have a mirror and whichever method you choose, use a light hand and stray away from using too much product. Don't press on the skin hard, either. It's always easier to add color than it is to remove it. This kind of fine-tuning will help you to manage your product so that you don't over-do it by accident. As you're working on your brows, stand back and look at them from a distance in the mirror. This will help you see if they're appearing visually balanced and natural.

Healy recommends using a tool like the Duo Brow Brush ($28). "Use the brush side to apply the powder cosmetic in those sparser areas, and the spoolie side to help blend it out for a natural look with some added depth."

If you find that the color you chose is too dark or the wrong tone, it will look like you painted on fake eyebrows. Don't be afraid to ask your salesperson for testers. It's hard to tell how the product will look on you and your brow hair by simply glancing at the tube or color printed on the package.

Shape Your Eyebrows

When it comes to shaping your eyebrows for a natural (rather than dramatic) look, consider what would best complement your face shape. The main thing you want to do is create some shape by using small hair-like strokes. Make sure that the front of your brows aren't squared off or appear too harsh. You also don't want to overextend the tail end of your eyebrow, which can draw your face down. For a natural look, avoid an arch that is too pointy or over-exaggerated and instead focus on a simple and smooth curve.

And if all of that sounds like a lot of work, try a multi-tasking product, like a brow gel. "An awesome 3-in-1 product will fill the brows with color, hold the hairs in place all day, and cover individual hairs," says Healy. "It's also great for covering up white or gray hairs. Our Brow Lacquer ($28) is a go to for many clients with greying brow hairs, it's very pigmented so a little goes a long way."

Get a Professional Tint

As Healy notes, a professional eyebrow tint is "a great way to help reduce the amount of products required to achieve a great brow—you can sometimes even use 80% less product if you tint your brows." Most professional services, including his own Joey Healy Blueprint service, will help clients achieve both "the ideal shape and color, and from there you can use your favorite cosmetic to touch up."

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